Black Tea Varietals
Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), produces a black tea known for its aromatic amber liquor and its rich, full, astringent flavor. It is lighter than an Assam and not as flowery as a Darjeeling. Ceylonese estates all produce a tea that can stand on its own, or blends well with fruit and essentials oils. Classification is not by estates. The island’s tea is classified by grade of leaf, progressing from the mildest to the strongest in this order: FOP-OP-FP-BOP-BOPF.
China’s Keemun (KEY-min) has a small, slender, tightly curled, very black leaf and is unique in that it gains character with age. It is known for its orchid aroma and dark red liquor. Its mild sweet flavor produces a great evening beverage. Keemun is frequently used as a base for scented blends.
Lapsang Souchong (LAP-sang SOO-shong) is a moderately smoky tea, produced by withering the leaves over open fires of pine. It goes well with salty and spicy dishes and with cheese.
Yunnan (YOU-nahn) is nicknamed the “mocha of tea.” With a fine golden liquor and a long finish, it goes well with a drop of milk and continental breakfast.
India’s Assam (ah-SAHM) teas often are blended with “breakfast” teas producing a strong malty taste and dark liquor. They go well with a drop of cold milk.
Darjeeling (dar-JEE-ling) is a rare and very fine small leafed tea found in the Himalayan foothills of northern India and is noted for its clarity and light but flavorful cup. Darjeeling leaves are intentionally broken during manufacture. The closely planted Darjeeling gardens roll for acres between elevations of 3-6,000ft. The higher the elevation, the lighter and more flowery the tea. Darjeeling means “Land of the Thunderbolt.” Darjeelings are sometimes identified and sold by estate (such as Glenburn, Bloomfield or Namring) or by flush.
Black Tea blends have no real recipe. You need a good scale, some intuition, and a few basic ground rules. Never blend teas with great character, start with a neutral base then add to it. Here are some examples of the classics.
- English Breakfast is a small leafed tea generally composed of a Ceylon BOP with a hint of Assam and some Darjeeling. This very British blend is drunk with a drop of milk and goes well with toast, honey, or jam.
- Five O’clock Blend is another typical English blend; this time using whole leaf Ceylon teas OP or FOP. This beverage is fuller in body and is a light aromatic brew. Milk can be added although it is great on its own. As an afternoon tea, serve it with a snack or some sweets.
- Russian Caravan is generally a hearty black from China. An oolong from Formosa is blended with a Lapsang Souchong to give the smoky taste.
Scented black and green teas include a number of classics that are a great evening beverage. Sugar may sometimes be added but never milk.
- Earl Gray is a China or Darjeeling tea (greens and oolongs are now available), scented with oil from the peel of bergamot, a Canton orange.
- Jasmine came from Persia and grew well in China. The night blooming flowers are picked just before sunrise and kept in a cool place till after the daily harvest, when the fragrant flowers are placed next to the dried green tea leaves. This process is repeated once or twice for ordinary teas, and as many as seven times for the special grades known as Yin-Hao. The presence of leaves in the tea has know bearing on its quality.
- Imperial Russian black tea from China is flavored with bergamot and other citrus scents.
Green Tea Varietals
Gunpowder tea comes from China and Formosa (the Chinese call it “Pearl Tea”). Each leaf is rolled into a tiny pellet which explodes when dropped into boiling water. Fine gun powder has a low green liquor and a refreshing taste. Add fresh mint leaves for a thirst quenching summer drink.
In Japan, Gen Mai Cha is comprised of green sencha leaves blended with fire toasted rice. It is a hardy tea with a salty grainy taste that is both refreshing and filling. Gyokuro (ghee-OH-koo-roe) utilizes flat, sharply pointed leaves like pine needles. The liquor is green, sweet and smooth. It is made from first flush tips plucked from plants cultivated in the shade and harvested only once a year in May.
Oolongs from Formosa with their semi-fermented teas have become the specialty of the island. They are to be drunk plain, without milk, during or after a meal. Infused leaves are rusty brown and very large; the leaf and bud sets having desirable silver tips. It is highly aromatic and non astringent. Fine Taiwan Oolongs compare with Darjeeling, but with a rounder, deeper cup. Its flavor has been compared to chestnut, honey, and peaches.
